Johniegordo

joined 1 year ago
[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 9 points 3 months ago (1 children)

That's the best pigs body part for making bacon. Pig's face seasoned and smoked is delicious.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 0 points 3 months ago

Back in the day we use to use dield internet after midnight cause one would pay only one phonecall that would last until you hang-up. I used to go to a relatives house that I hated, only to play Doom at their's PCs. I mean, only to watch her playing.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 11 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Whasing it is Highly illegal where I live. Furthermore, it's extremely unethical. I'd not like to buy a vehicle that was salvage without knowing it previously.

Changing frames would be OK, but I'm pretty sure that a new legal frame in good shape plus documentation and labor swaping it would be more expensive than the amount of money I'd be able to recover upon selling.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 8 points 1 year ago

Salvage vehicles are those that wore at some point Involved in some kind of accident that has inflicted considerable damage to it. It has different degrees of damage, going from minor to severe. Although the vehicles are able been repaired to it's full functionality and safety, they'll have it's documentation marked as salvage forever. Mine was marked as minor damages, I got it already repaired, if one is curious.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 25 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (11 children)

Don't buy salvaged vehicles unless you are dead sure you gonna keep it for life. And don't cotumise it if you intend not loosing that money. I've bought my Harely salvaged 10 years ago, put a lot of work and money on that. Now I want to sell it and I just can't, even taking a 20% loss on the market price. And that is without adding the parts money I've spent. Bike original goes for 40K. I've put around 12K on parts and upgrades. I'm asking 32K and can't sell it. Furthermore, the dealership don't accept that bike on a trade cause of the salvage mark it has.

11
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Johniegordo@lemmy.world to c/homebrewing@sopuli.xyz
 

Hello fellow brewers. Here I go, once again, with my favorite show: Rate My Beer Recipe. BS apart, I'd love to here your insights in the following. It's supposed to be a realy simple, straight forward American IPA. No shenanigans, no fancy practices, no need to reinvent the wheel.

64.5% Pale Malt. 24% Pilsen Malt. 8% Wheat Malt (protein to help foam). 3% Special B Malt (color correction).

43 IBU Cascade First Worth 11 IBU Willamatte boiling for 10 minutes 1g/L Cascade in the flame out 3g/L Willamatte and 3g/L Cascade DH for 5 days.

60 minute mash, 30 minutes boiling. PH correction for mash in (~5.5) PH correction sparge water (~5.5) Neutral Water profile.

Fermenting with US-05, starting 15°c and letting it go up until 18°c. Once done, gonna diacetil rest it around 22°c for 5 days (DH time), cold crash for more 5 days and throw to postmix.

What you guys think about it?

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

Hahaahahahhahah indeed!!

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Not quite right though. Beers like Dubbel, Trippel and Quad, Barley wine, Russian Imperial Stouts, Acid beers and so on keep maturation when bottled. One can try this experiment: get yourself 2 bottles of Orval, drink one right way and take notes. Than, drink the other one 2 ~ 4 year later. You'll get a completely different beer. For my taste, 2 years is the sweet spot. In fact, the only way to keep the bottled beer to maturate is pasteurization, which is not a good practice taste wise.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 6 points 1 year ago (5 children)

You know, there are some kinds of beer that are intended to be aged. I have one bottle of a Russian Imperial Stout that I brewd 7 years ago. But the beer you referred in you post is definitely not the aging kind. In fact, it's supposed to be consumed as fresh as possible. A sample with that age have definitely gone bad.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

You see, one can hardly ever get everything right. The purpose off trying is to get the least possible akount of things done wrong soh when shit like this goes south, you have a "fighting chance". I mean, if you get all but fermentation temp right, ods are you'll have a beer that cam be corrected, harther tham some death tasting beverage.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

Thanks for the replay. I've brewd a handful of dubbel and one trippel before, but have gone way wrong in the French oak to the point it got unbearable. It took something like 8 months to start been drinkable, and It was over in something like a week hahahah. For this one I'm using Lallemand Belle Saison, starting in 20°c and just letting it go till is stops rising. Gonna set my tic to 30°c - the upper temp limit specified in the yeast chart and let it go its way. Guess priming with 6sh g/L of table sugar and letting it set for a long time is the way to go, although it's gonna be tough to handle the drinking desire hahahaha

 

So you guys might remember my previous post about a Belgian Golden Strong Ale. That one was actually a "starter" for this one. What are your thoughts about it? I intend to fermet it with Belle Saison at 23+°c.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 20 points 1 year ago (7 children)

Lear how to cook. Just grab a simple online recipe, a bottle of your beverage of choice and try cooking something. It's a really simple and useful skill acquire.

[–] Johniegordo@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

Exactly, 10L. I've just realized I've mistaken the base malt. It's supposed to be pilsen, not pale ale.

 

Hey guys, hope you all been good.

Any thoughts on my Belgian Strong Ale recipe?

I'd like to use another Belgian malt, but there's only Chateau Abbey or Special B available at the brewstore. I tried Special B on this grist but the EBC got too high, I'd need to use such small amount that it would not make any difference at all.

What you think?

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