I’d recommend a sawstop, even the folding or contractor one. It’s a fingersaver.
this post was submitted on 21 Mar 2024
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The most expensive table saw is not "basic".
Edit: You're telling a person who occasionally does wood work to buy a thousand dollar saw. Do you people even listen to yourselves? I bet you all bought $600+ saws when you were occasional woodworkers right? What a joke this thread is
The contractor one isn’t that expensive. And it saves on medical bills if an amateur cuts their fingers.
But yeah be a prick about it.
Yeah it's only a thousand dollars right? Just 3-5x a normal table saw!
How much is your finger worth then in your opinion?
The guy asked for a basic table saw. A thousand dollar saw is not basic.
I agree, but I would suggest the guy should be willing to spend the money for safety. If he cannot afford it get a handsaw.
Surely you can see how silly that is. You can cut your finger off with all kinds of woodworking tools. Does Sawstop make a hand saw? How about chisels?
You can, but it is less likely. Most likely you draw blood but the would heals normally in a week without needing a doctor
chisles are more dangerious but you normally work away from your body.
You're missing my point: A thousand dollar table saw is not a basic saw. It's not something anyone but a serious wood worker is going to buy unless they're rich. This person is going to buy a used Ryobi because the suggestions in this thread are so dumb. "Go buy a $650 saw! Go buy a $1000 saw!" How is that helpful at all? Do you recommend buying Snap On to your friends who want to turn a few bolts? This thread is a pile of gate keeping by people who either have way too much money or are serious woodworkers. And I'm getting downvoted for calling out this stupidity.
You are missing the point. table saws are too dangerious to risk the cheap saw. Better to do without. Ther are alternatives that while slower are also cheaper.
i understand this is a lot of money. your fingers are worth it.
This guy works for Delta or something. Or just hates people having fingers.
In the US, my emergency room bill (just stitches thank god) cost significantly more than the $900 smallest Sawstop.
When my wife and I bought ours it was only 1.5x a comparable (similar motor/blade spec) DeWalt/Bosch, maybe 2x a comparable Delta. The only saws available at 1/5 the price were on Craigslist.
Yeah, it's more, but as hobbyists we figured we were (1) more likely to make a painful (and costly) mistake than a professional who's working with the thing day in and day out and (2) less likely to be able to restore/maintain a used saw of unknown age, provenance, condition, etc. Worth it for us, and IMO probably for most serious amateurs.
Most table saw accidents happen because of a lack of riving knife. Use that and the blade guard and your chances of losing a finger drop dramatically.
I got a DeWalt, used for $50, mainly for the rack and pinion fence. Makes setting the fence so much easier
I got a delta 36-725T2, it was around $650 when I got it, looks like it's gone up around $50 since then, but I still think that's a good deal.
The fence is super solid, the saw is on wheels but they retract for a super stable feel, I really like it.
That being said, if you can't buy a quality new saw (plan to spend at least $500 and harbor freight is NOT quality) I would start scouring the classifieds.
Any older craftsman 10" saw will be worth a look. Delta, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, and Rigid are also solid brands.
You should mainly narrow down if you are looking for a portable saw or not.
If you have an area you can dedicate to woodworking, I would highly recommend a cabinet or contractor saw. The stability and capacity you gain over a bench top or job site saw cannot be overstated. That said, if you do need a portable saw I would recommend a job site saw over a bench top model if you can afford it.
I cannot make any recommendation on portable saws, but for me, I was between the Rigid R4560 and the Delta. I ended up getting the Delta simply due to the fact that I felt the fence was a bit more stable. There are upgrades for both models, so really it's just a personal preference.
I love my Sawstop Contractor saw, but honestly the biggest upgrade was going from an aluminum jobsite saw to the then 20-year old Taiwan import Contractor saw I had before the Sawstop. I'd say it's an even bigger step than going from an old-design 110v motor-hanger (of which the Sawstop is last man standing, I think) to a big 220v cabinet saw.
Guess I'm going used and crossing my fingers. Guess I was hoping for something in between harbor freight and the more expensive options. Thx for the info.
I've liked the rigid folding saws I've used
I'd recommend ignoring this pile of thousand dollar saw gate keepers and go buy a used Bosch portable saw. You can probably score one for like 150 bucks. This thread is full of people with too much money. Thousand dollar saw for a hobbyist who occasionally does woodwork. What a joke these recommendations are. Go have fun and probably don't ask for beginner help on here again.
Bingo. My first table saw was a heavily used Ryobi direct drive. It was noisy at hell and hard to use with precision, but it only cost $25 and helped me figure out if I wanted to get into woodworking or not.
Seriously, if you're just getting into this, you don't need to drop $1000+ on a SawStop. If you have the money, fuck yeah, get one. If not, just use proper technique, tools, and PPE. Be extremely careful as even the cheapest, most underpowered saw will take multiple fingers off in less than a second. If you're not scared, get scared. I've been doing this for over a decade and my table saw still makes me wary. That's a good thing.
I've been really happy with my Bosch 4100, but it did take me a while to properly align the arbor with the miter slots. I've been using it on-and-off for about 7-ish years, and I'm only recently considering to upgrade to a Sawstop.
I got a Bosch new and it was something like 500 bucks. For a table saw that seems like a reasonable price to me.
The HF Hercules might not be that bad; it's lifted a lot of idea from the well-regarded DeWalt jobsite saws. I will second the other people on here and suggest you get something with a 27" cast-iron table, whether new or used (an old craftsman belt-drive can still be a good deal especially with an upgraded fence). The improvement in work handling, accuracy, and stability is absolutely night and day, not to mention that they pretty much all use induction motors which, while still loud when cutting, don't scream like a banshee the entire time they're turned on. Putting it on casters somehow will help you live with it in a garage shop more easily.
Barring that, I'd still say get something with the biggest table you can fit, probably a Ridgid aluminum table; consider a folding stand too. A table saw can be insanely versatile, but anything other than lengthwise ripping is a pain the ass without a big stable surface. If you STILL want something small, the DeWalts are the best, but then you're gonna end up building some bespoke outfeed workstation to bolt it to and/or using all you saved in money and space to get a sliding compound miter saw.
Have any size/weight/portability restrictions?
It looks like the Rigid R4560 is the current incarnation of the table saw I have.
It's hard to go wrong with craigslist if you live in a decently dense area. Worst case, you can always sell it for around what you paid for it.
If you're going to be cutting large pieces of wood, having a heavy saw will give you more stability. You're also going to need something to help with indeed and out feed if you're going to try to cut something like a 2x4.
As an alternative, or potentially a companion, consider a track saw and sawhorses or even a circular saw with something like this. I break down large pieces of wood this way now and then being them to my table saw.
That looks real nice but feels like it's too expensive for my use. Guess I'll be shopping used.
I don't trust myself to cut straight with a track saw, otherwise it sounds like a good idea.
A track saw is rigidly mounted to the track. As long as you clamp the track square, you should be good to go.
I've got predecessor to this Dewalt and it's been good. I did build workbench around it when stationary, otherwise it's quite portable and useful for small projects
We've had pretty good luck with this Kobalt
I just bought one of these, and do like it, BUT, my only complaint is the plate surrounding the blade is plastic and flexes easily. I've had multiple pieces of wood stop with about an inch left to go before completely clearing the blade. Could be user error, but even waxing the surface and using the lightest pressure possible to safely push the wood, it still catches at times.
I'll make a plywood replacement this weekend, and don't have any other complaints, but just be weary. Couldn't believe Kobalt would use plastic for that piece. :(
I would avoid the lunch box style Ryobi and similar mobile table saws. Pick up an older Craftsman from '90s or a used Bosch.