If you are into the Adventure lifestyle and/or want a bigger and brighter display, longer battery life, better durability, and/or simply like it (and can afford it), get the Apple Watch Ultra, if not get the regular Apple Watch.
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At the end of the day, majority of the use cases will be okay with either the series 9 or ultra. It ultimately depends on your need. You should pick the ultra if you want the better battery life, action button or the bigger and rugged design. You should pick series 9 if you prefer the smaller and sleeker design.
I myself would love to have the ultra's battery life, but I don't like the look and feel of the ultra (too big and just prefer the size of the regular series better), so I would pick series 9 if those are my 2 choices. However, I don't really do any long workouts or disappear from civilization for extended period, so an "all-day" battery of the regular series is fine for me.
I just upgraded from the Series 8 to the Ultra 2, mainly for the better battery life. I try to wear it most of the day, including sleep tracking and gym workouts, so the Ultra 2 has already proven itself.
I was able to wear it without charging for a day and a half, and even then, I was only down in the 30% battery range. It likely could last a little over 2 days without too much trouble.
The Ultra is bigger than the normal version, but it’s not outrageously large, unless you have very slim wrists. I have large wrists, so it doesn’t really look out of place on me.