3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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I'm not so sure about that. I have gone all-metal (and bimetallic) on my 3V2 for the, uh. The bit connecting the heater to the heat sink. The HEATBREAK. Right. But the heater block, sensor, heat sink are all original and they have absolutely no problem with 1.0mm, at least up to 220. I've done various power measurements and it's not having to work hard to do it, either.
The other changes I've made to the hot end assembly have been adding more cooling, not more heat. (It's dual fan now and has better airflow to the heatsink.)
I mean, it could all be due to the bimetallic heatbreak. But, well... 1.0mm is 100% absolutely fine on my 3V2.