3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
Check for a partial clog. 80% of the time i get that consistency with petg, its because the nozzle is partially clogged. The other 20% is the ptfe tubing is shot. Usually it partially melts and causes underextrusion.
Wet filament could be an issue too, but this is pretty extreme for wet filament.
You were right! All clogged up.
Replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Wasn’t able to unscrew the nozzle (got stuck 80% out) so I replaced the whole thing.
Did two new temp towers:
Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.
https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg
I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.
Make sure you calibrate your e-steps after swapping hotends. I did the same thing on my ender 3 putting on a volcano hotend, and started getting overextrusion. After adjusting the e-steps it was back to normal.