BudgetAudiophile

Hello fine folks, a couple of months ago I shared my experience with Fosi Monoblocks . In the time since I posted about those I have hooked them up with a Wiim Pro Plus for a killer digital music budget setup. Anyway, I was checking out the Fosi 7th anniversary/ZD3 balanced amp launch page and see they have a contest running to win a ZD3, ZA3 and a VOL20. I could make good use of that VOL20 myself, and the rules are just that the 15 most impressive setups (even just text descriptions of setups count) will win prize packs. There aren't even a hundred comments on there right now, and this seems like the right place for budget equipment (it doesn't get more budget than winning!) so I thought I would pop back in to share. Good luck if you choose to participate.

I bought a used Yamaha A2A and can return it for 30 days.

Do you have any advice to check that it's fine? What have you seen go wrong with these things?

I'm watching a DVD piped through it and it's working. It turns on. The knobs rotate. The remote remotes...?

So I did the jump and bought myself some good Sennheiser Accentum Plus headphones which are overall pretty good, the only issue I'm facing is that the headphones itself didn't come with buttons to skip/pause music and instead uses a touch panel, the problem is that when I try to skip a song or pause it with the touch panel it doesn't work at all, it works nice in my phone but on my Linux system it doesn't. I tried with different programs and it doesn't change anything.

Someone have some advice? I'm using ArcoLinux i3

I have never spent a lot of money on headphones, but for the first time I would like to try to spend a little more, and not only because of the brand, but also because of the features which are not entirely clear to me.

1. Are they (the Sennheiser Accentum Plus Wireless) compatible with PS5 consoles? As far as I understand, as a general rule the only wireless headphones (via bluetooth) that work with Sony consoles are Sony's own headphones, but I would like to know if I'm wrong.

2. How does the multipoint technology work? I would love to be able to listen to music playing from my phone and at the same time listen to the sounds of the game I'm playing on my Steam Deck, but I don't know if it works like that.

3. How good is the noise cancellation? I am interested in buying them to be able to study in a noisy environment and I don't expect it to cancel 100% of the noise but at least most of the noise.

They don't need to be brilliant, just decent enough.

Hello,

I own a Denon DCD-810 which plays mostly fine. I've cleaned the lens, changed the belt and cleaned / greased the rails and gears on this thing and it can play hours without a hitch.

Now I notice that certain CD's skip sometimes. Nothing is physically damaged with the CD's themselves (as far as I can see). The skipping is not always on the same moments but seem to concentrate more on the first few tracks. Although that might also be my perception because usually I just throw in a different CD when the skipping starts.

So having playing Purple Haze for the third time now in a row I started out with skipping and now it plays almost flawlessly. The player has already been playing for more that an hour before so no cold components as far as I know. I can find no relation between the skipping CD's in age. Old or new both can be jerky.

Does anyone know what could cause skipping on certain CD's while others play fine for hours on end? I accept my DCD-810 being a fossil as a valid answer ;)

I love Bluetooth bone conduction earphones and I'm ready to buy something pricier, sturdier, waterproof, and hopefully sound far superior to everything I've tried.

I've had a few budget sets, and I love the convenience, portability, and weight of all of them, but the audio is obviously dog s***.

Are there any bone conduction headphones that are not dog s*** audially that any of you can personally attest to?

Thanks

Hello, I'm not really too well versed in Audio, so im sorry if this question may seem a bit silly to you experts.

A few Months ago, I got my self some Vintage 4 Way Speaker Boxes from the late East germany. The person I bought it from, insisted that these need very specific Amplifiers so all 4 Speakers of the 4 Way System will be utilized.

The Amplifier he said worked best with that are Fera V150s, also Vintage east German stuff... issue here being that mine has issues working consistently, so I'll probably have to replace it at some point.

What seems odd to me is that the 4 way Speaker Boxes need specific Amplifiers to use all 4 Speakers? Is that true, or would any amplifier be able to drive all 4 Speakers just fine?

Earlier this year I bought a new Denon AVR-X1700H. I was happy with it, but after a month I noticed it produced a humm when I turn it on. It's only noticeable when the room is near silent, but it's really annoying when you notice it.

After investigation, it's coming from inside the device, I guess from a coil or transformer. I disconnected all sources and all speakers and it's only coming from inside the enclosure. It's silent when on standby mode (red led) and can be heard as soon as I turn it on (green led).

Spectrogram of the noise:

https://imgur.com/a/oaBrRhK first click is the first relay when the device is turned on, the 200Hz humm is here. Then comes the second relay. Then I turn the device off, both relays are clicking again and then the 200Hz humm is gone.

sound file:

http://sndup.net/ns947

I contacted my local dealer after sale service describing them in details the problem. they were not responsive. after a second email they accepted I send it back for service. (after telling me there would be fee is my claim is bogus). I quickly received the device back without any explanations about what was done. Only a List of replacement part serial numbers, they apparently replaced the main transformer.

Unfortunately, once plugged in, the problem was still the same. I contacted the service again, and I was told the noise they detected was "within the normal range" and "that this hum comes from the customer's network (ripple control pulse)."

None of my other sound devices are making this kind of noise at home. I tried to connect the AVR to another socket in another room, same result. I even tried to disconnect all the electrical devices in my flat (even the fridge, the dishwasher, the cooker and the internet box) and I still have the same result.

Could someone tell me, by the files I uploaded above, If I'm extremely sensitive or if there's indeed something wrong with my device ?

My wife and I are moving from a condo to a house in a month and I'd like to set up a "proper" audio system on the property such that my wife can listen to one thing in her office, I can listen to something else in the garage, and my kids can listen to something in their rooms. The Sonos system is what I think I aspire to, but I haven't looked into things for a dozen+ years so don't really know what all is out there.

I currently have a bunch of Google pucks across the house, but would like better-quality audio than those provide.

Any alternatives to Sonos that have feature parity (or near-parity)?

I have two of these speakers that I would like to connect to my TV. It really doesn't need to get super loud since I will be using it to watch tv/movies at a normal volume. My tv does have the red/yellow/white rca ports as well as an audio aux port.

Can someone please recommend an amp and wires to attach these two with a priority on reliability and energy efficiency? I'm a noob at anything audio.

I have this old pair of Technics SB-3130, they are three way speakers. Both of the super tweeters are dead (infinite resistance) and I’m not sure if this impact the range of frequency feeded to the tweeter. Given the schematic diagram, if I remove the super tweeter, should I modify something to have all the high frequencied on the tweeter?

Been collecting records for years but never owned a turntable (lol)

Wondering if it's a better bet to buy a brand new turntable, or a vintage turntable? I like the idea of buying a vintage made in Japan turntable but not sure if there is actually a difference in terms of technology.

Also, I am interested in ripping some records I have, can any turntable do this? I have a focusrite audio interface already.

Recommendations appreciated. My headphones are AKG K7XX but likely I would be using the turntable with my inexpensive powered Edifer bookshelf speakers.

I have been considering buying an IEM that would be a step up from my older BLON BL03 and QKZ x HBB.

So far I have narrowed down to these 3 -

1. Truthear x Crinacle Zero (red)
2. Simgot EW200
3. 7hz Sonus

I found one more IEM - KZ PR-2 or PR-3

I mostly listen to Rock, metal, jazz, blues and some occasional cinematic soundtracks (like Hans Zimmer). I also want to use the IEM to play games like Apex Legends.

I want it to last for sometime (if possible) unlike my blon - the shells come off every now and then and its annoying.

If there are any other IEMs I should consider please let me know. I just want the best value for money IEM that sounds good

Finally I have a new amplifier, but it has no sub woofer connection. I have 2 3-way boxes connected. I have also a set of Kef KHT 2005.2 satelite speakers. Lowest freq they have is 80 hz. Is it possible to connect them to the amplifier? Or can I damage this speakers or the amplifier? Amp Yamaha A-S201 3-way speakers Dual CL 730 Thx for any advice

This happened to the tweeter of one of my Theil speakers. I don't have an audio technician nearby, so I was hoping to do this repair myself.

Who makes a good RCA cable that I can use to connect my subwoofer? I wanna go one output from the receiver to two inputs on the woofer. I'd like to not break the bank or overpay for ridiculous brand names if possible. I just can't tell on Amazon anymore what kind of quality I'm getting from China basically.

I know they are passive, but what are some good brands or receivers that I could use with an Audio Technica LP120 turntable?

Also, does the type of speaker wire I use matter too?

Total newbie asking some basic questions. Let's say I have 3 devices that I want to connect to and simultaneously transmit audio to a single bluetooth headset...

Could I use a 3.5mm audio mixer with those three devices as inputs and a 3.5mm to bluetooth adapter to then send the sound to my bluetooth headset?

Now, let's say I'd like to also switch between the 3 devices with my bluetooth headset to use both headphones/mic. Would I be able to use a 3.5mm splitter, split the sound from the devices to both the audio mixer and an audio switch with the output of the audio mixer plugged into the 4th slot of the audio switch and the 3.5mm to bluetooth adapter plugged into the output of the audio switch and either choose the mixer as input or each of the 3 devices individually?

If that works, I think I heard that splitters make volume lower than normal from output devices? Would I then put an amplifier between the 3.5mm bluetooth adapter and the audio switch?

This is all seeming like it would work in my head but I have literally never worked with any audio equipment before so, figured I'd ask.

Also, is this totally overkill and is there a way easier way to solve my issues?

I want to know if there is a way to essentially hook up two AUX ports from 2 phones and merge them into one. Allowing me to listen to the audio output from both devices at the same time and use any set of AUX headphones to listen to these 2 phones.

I am looking for speakers, decent quality and nice looking that doesn't stand out too much. I want it on a bookshelf in the kitchen and another in the sitting room.

I want it to connect to a home server but also Spotify/streaming. And I'd like them to link together.

Basically I want the house listening experience to be seamless when going between different rooms, 2-4 speakers. Audiobooks and some music would be stored on a Nas and most music and podcasts would be Spotify.

I'd prefer to interact with it through my phone, Android if possible but not completely necessary.

In my head I imagine walking into a new room and tapping the speaker with my phone to switch to that speaker.

Is this a real thing?

Took around three or four hours. With a thicker thread it would be a lot faster. It's just for looks but it may theoretically strengthen it a bit, since the plastic is pretty thin. The earpads are the Brainwavz 100mm Round Sheepskin. Wouldn't buy them on my own since I don't necessarily think they're worth their price (since they're only marginally more comfortable than the stock earpads) but I got them as a gift from family. I also used to have some rubber kitty ears on top, but I got worried that the constant pressure would eventually damage those flimsy plastic tubes so I took them off.

Hello everyone,

unfortunately I have to replace my audio-technica ATH-CKX9 InEars with a new pair.

I was hoping you could help me find new ones:

• Wired InEar
• 3.5mm jack
• Use at home (Music/Gaming: 50/50)
• Homogeneous sound (if possible)
• Up to 120€/$

Thanks in advance, help is much appreciated!

I am way out of my depths even looking for one. If anyone has any pointers, it would be a huge help!

For info: I use 2 Edifier R1280s and normally on relatively low volume, so it doesn't need to be anything crazy, but I will slowly build my sound system over the next 4-5 years and would like to not need replace a new record player (which will be a central piece) in the coming years. Willing to spend €350 depending on quality.

Many thanks BAs!

I decided to upgrade my car's front speakers and everything worked okay in the beginning but the stereo stopped producing sound after a while. After a lot of tinkering I found out that the amp wasn't working properly so I decided to buy a new stereo.

This time I installed my stereo and tested everything was working properly before I put everything back together, and it was. However, when I put all the panels back and turned on the car, there was no sound. After removing everything once again and testing each individual connection I found out that the speakers were not working when inside the doors but worked fine outside. I decided to rotate them inside the door and they are now working fine.

My question is, what could have actually happened? My theory has something to do with the magnetic field that the speaker produces, but then again I have no idea.