3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
So the thread in the aluminum was stripped?
There’s a few options that might work. Threadlocker isn’t really epoxy or glue. I’d the thread is merely loose, it’ll keep it from coming out with vibration.
Another option is straight up epoxy- but this would be hard to undo.
Possibly, the best option would be to re-tap the thread. You might be able to get an m4 tap and clean it up with that.
If that doesn’t work, or it’s already that far gone, you could probably go up to an m5, though that would weaken the extrusion more than intended.
If you do want to try re-tapping, avoid the trap of buying tap and die sets. Just get the individual pieces you need (the chuck/holder thing and a the m4 or m5 tap.) a cheap set will still be more expensive than high-quality taps in the 2-3 sizes you actually wind up using.
(Also, general note 1/8” smooth rod is in every hardware store, and a die is much cheaper than 1/8” thread and usually looks neater, unless you need it fully threaded.)
Okay, I have no clue what I'm doing but I did look up a little bit on tapping and think I might be able to try that. Of all the threads to strip I think I may have gotten lucky. The screw doesn't seem to do much other than keep the metal plate from sliding up and down (though I may be wrong) so I'm not too worried about strength I think.
What do you mean about the rod? Is this to buy a rod, cut it to size, use a die to thread it, and screw that in?
Is this a "good enough" tap? Looks like I'd need to get a wrench for it too?
Imo for a single job, I'd prioritize getting some tap magic over worrying about tap quality. For aluminum, tap magic makes a big difference.
I'm starting from no knowledge here, so all advice is great! Do you mean this stuff? Or should I get the aluminum version?
The aluminum version would be preferred, but what you linked will do just fine. I can't find a small tin of the aluminum version on Amazon, so don't bother overspending on a large container.
If you are going up a thread size, make sure you get the appropriate drill bit. You need to drill out the hole before tapping. M5 usually calls for a 4.2mm predrill.